Hardwood floors with a thickness of 8-10mm may be sanded and stained up to ten times. Each time, a darker or a lighter stain may be chosen. The surface layer of an engineered wood floor must meet a minimum thickness of 2mm for the process to achieve adequate results. Outcomes vary depending on the wood species, the grade or quality of the wood, and the age of the wood.
The age of the selected stain is another factor that may contribute to the end result. Where a stain is many years old, the pigment may have settled in the base of the container. This may cause inconsistencies even when mixed well. Fresh stain is always recommended as a means of avoiding any issues.
Wood Floor Thickness
A professional stain and finish begins with preparing the wood floor. This preparation typically involves sanding, which removes the surface layer and creates a fresh layer of wood. Up to 1mm is removed from the surface of the wood during sanding. When working with engineered wood floors, a visible cross section can help to determine the thickness of the upper layer of wood (this could be found by removing a piece of edge trim).
Avoid sanding an engineered wood floor that does not meet a minimum thickness of 2mm. This is because up to one millimetre will be removed during prep work (sanding). An upper layer thickness of one millimeter is viewed as the minimum amount of wood required to maintain the look and performance of the floor. Going beneath this depth risks exposing the lower layers of plywood.
Wood Floors – Staining Process
There are many factors that should be taken into consideration when preparing to restain either an engineered wood floor or a hardwood floor.
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- Measure Up
Take full measurements of the entire surface area. This is an essential part of ensuring the correct preparations can be made in terms of purchasing materials and equipment. - Space to Work
Remove everything from the surface of the floor. This includes any furniture, carpet, and carpet staples (or nails) – achieve a smooth and even sanding by removing any and all obstacles. - What Does Not Need to be Removed?
Quarter-round and doors that open away from the room do not necessarily need to be removed – unless the presence of either presents awkward and unworkable corners or corridor edges. - Remove Varnish, Shellac, or Lacquer Finish
- Measure Up
Stripper may seem like a money saving idea. However, the cost ultimately outweighs sanding. Stripper is also labour intensive and time inefficient over medium to large areas.
’Stain’ or ‘Finish’?… Importantly, many people do not realise the difference between staining and finishing. This is a simple difference. A finish is a protective coating (oil or varnish) that works with the natural colours within the wood. A stain is a solution containing a pigment that is intended to recolour the wood floor from light to dark or from dark to light – or even to a reddish tone as desired.
Choosing a Stain – Oil Based or Water Based?
Depending on the desired depth of tone, an oil based or water based stain may be preferable. Knowing the difference between the types of available stains is an essential part of ensuring the wood floor is stained with the correct colour. The choice between water based stains and oil based stains is usually seen as a choice between colour and protection.
- Colour (Richness)
Water based stains result in a much deeper richness of tone than oil based stains - Protection
Oil Based stains generally achieve a more ‘seeped-in’ seal – meaning greater protection
Whatever the decision, the choice of brush can be crucial in the correct application of the stain. Synthetic brushes are preferred when using water based stains, whereas natural bristles are preferred for oil based stains. This ensures a smooth coating and lessens the risk of leaving bristles behind in the stain.
